A Primer on Expat Life in China

Until very recently, relocation to China was considered a “hardship” posting for diplomatic and commercial staff. Pay bumps, extra holidays, generous housing allowances, cars with drivers, children’s school fees, and even quarterly weekend R&R trips to Hong Kong were all expected benefits. These are mostly being curtailed and phased out as companies slash budgets and “localize” management.

In the major mainland cities of Beijing and Shanghai; these cosmopolitan, dynamic megapolises have all of the amenities one might expect of a world class city, and more. Parks, museums, art galleries, concert halls, top-notch restaurants and luxury hotels abound. Getting a taste of “home” whether it be a hamburger, pizza, taco, foie gras, or dim sum is simply a matter of picking up the phone or jumping in a taxi.

So how to get to China? If you’re being relocated to mainland China by your company, getting the proper visas and related work permits should be pretty straightforward if you work for a major international or Fortune 500 firm. However, if you work for a smaller start-up or if you’re an entrepreneur, relocating to China may be more tricky. In the run-up to the 2008 Olympics in Beijing, the authorities drastically reduced the number of visas allotted to foreigners, and while they’ve since re-opened, things have never really returned to their pre-2007 levels of openness.

It had been common practice for expatriates from startups to apply for tourist visas, and then run their company from Hong Kong or their home country. However, this practice has recently been targeted by the immigration and tax authorities. In order to get a business visa in China, it may be worth contacting a reputable travel agency.

Once you’ve made it to China, as an expatriate, you’re required to follow the laws of China as well as your home country. However, many new arrivals are surprised to discover that China is not the restrictive totalitarian state that they’ve seen on the television news at home. While the “three T’s” – Taiwan, Tibet, and Tiananmen – remain taboo subjects in public fora, visitors to China may be pleasantly surprised by the frank discussions which occur on current events both locally and internationally.

While visitors are expected to register with the local police station when they relocate and are technically required to produce their passport on demand at all times, enforcement is generally quite lax unless there has been a recent security breach.

Travelers still ought to carry their passports while on the road, as all domestic airlines, rail, and hotels will require a passport with valid visa. But this is generally no different to most countries. Gone are the days in China where tourists and business travelers required prior permission to take trips domestically. Today, it’s just a matter of a few clicks online to purchase an air or rail ticket, or reserve a hotel room. However, foreign visitors to Tibet will still require a special travel document in addition to their China visa.

Culturally speaking, foreign expatriates in China will generally find the locals very welcoming, but frankly, the artificially high social status once enjoyed by western foreigners is nearly a thing of the past. As China’s economy grows and management localizes, seemingly there is less need for foreign expertise across most industries. There is an increasing sentiment of self-confidence among young Chinese professionals.

The cost of living is rapidly increasing in China’s major cities, but because of China’s income inequality, expats from Western countries in particular will find household help and services much more affordable. Hiring a housekeeper or nanny, even on a live-in basis is quite normal for a middle-class Western family who could never afford this at home.

Expats in China should be prepared for some growing pains as they move their lives across the world, but many find solace in local expat communities and clubs, whether they be language exchanges, sports clubs, hobbies, etc. Local embassies, consulates, and chambers of commerce are also focal points for various communities.

At best, expatriate life in China can combine all the comforts of home with exposure to a rich, varied, and ancient foreign culture. Difficult situations will of course be encountered (just as they might at home), but expats also have a dense network of support from their home communities as well, although these may be less prevalent in more remote parts of the country. In any case, as long as you make sure to keep your visa renewed and stay on the right side of the law, relocating China could be the best adventure you’ll have.